Your roof is leaking right now

Water coming through the ceiling feels like an emergency, and it can be one. But most roof leaks give you time to act in the right order. Safety first, then slow the water down, then document, then get the roof covered.

1. Safety first

• Keep water and electricity apart. If water is reaching outlets, light fixtures, ceiling fans or the electrical panel, shut off power to that area at the breaker. The CDC says to cut power at the main breaker when electrical equipment is wet, but never to wade through water to reach it. If the panel is wet or you'd be standing in water, call an electrician or your utility instead.
• Leave wet electrical things off. Don't turn wet fixtures or appliances back on until a licensed electrician has checked them. FEMA says the same about any wiring that got soaked.
• Watch the ceiling. A ceiling that bulges downward is holding water. Wet drywall is heavy and can drop without warning. Keep people and pets out from under it.
• Stay off the roof. Wet, icy or storm-damaged roofs are where people get hurt. Nothing up there is worth a fall at night.

2. Drain a bulging ceiling

If the bulge is not near a light fixture, draining it on purpose can beat letting it burst. Do it from a distance, not from a ladder under the sag. This follows FEMA and American Red Cross flood-repair guidance (Repairing Your Flooded Home).

• Put a bucket or tote under the bulge, and towels or a tarp around it.
• Tape or tie a nail to the end of a broom handle or long stick.
• Stand away from the sag, not under it. A doorway is the safest spot.
• Poke the first hole at the edge of the sag, not the center, which can give way suddenly. Then work toward the lowest point. Expect a stream.
• Leave the hole open so water keeps draining. The damaged drywall will be replaced anyway.

3. Contain the water

• Buckets, pots or a storage tote under every drip. Put a rag in the bucket to cut the splashing.
• Move furniture, rugs, electronics and papers out of the area.
• Cover what you can't move with plastic sheeting or a tarp.
• Mop and towel up standing water so it doesn't soak into floors.
• If it's safe and you can get there, check the attic. Set a pan or bucket where water is entering, and look for wet insulation.

4. Document it for insurance

Do this before you clean up, if you can do it safely. Photos and video are the evidence your claim will rest on.

• Video of the active leak, with the date visible on your phone if possible.
• Photos of the ceiling, walls, floors and anything that got wet.
• Wide shots of each room, then close-ups.
• Keep damaged items until the adjuster has seen them, if you can.
• Keep receipts for everything: tarps, buckets, fans, a hotel, the roofer's emergency visit.

Why it matters: most homeowners policies list duties after a loss. The standard ISO homeowners form asks you to protect the property from further damage, make reasonable and necessary repairs to protect it, and keep records of what those repairs cost. The Colorado Division of Insurance tells homeowners the same thing after storms: mitigate further damage, for example by tarping, photograph damage when it's safe, and contact your insurer as soon as you can. Skipping these steps can give an insurer a reason to dispute part of a claim. Your own policy's wording controls, so check it.

A temporary repair is fine; a permanent repair before the insurer has seen the damage is a different decision. Ask your insurer before anyone starts permanent work.

5. Get it tarped

A good emergency tarp is what keeps one bad night from becoming a ruined ceiling, insulation and decking. Roofing manufacturers GAF and IKO describe a proper tarp job the same way.

What a proper tarp job looks like:

• A heavy-duty tarp that extends well past the damage. GAF says at least 4 to 5 feet beyond it.
• Ideally run up and over the ridge, so water sheds off instead of running under the top edge.
• Edges wrapped around wood boards that are fastened down, spreading the load. Nails straight through bare plastic tear out in wind.
• Boards set so water drains off rather than pooling behind them.
• Openings cut and taped around plumbing vents and chimneys, not covered over.
• Photos of the damage taken before the tarp goes on.

Expect some nail holes in the shingles under the boards. Those get replaced during the permanent repair. Both manufacturers say homeowners shouldn't tarp a wet or damaged roof themselves. More on tarping as a service in types of roofing services.

What drives the cost: how big the damaged area is, how steep and high the roof is, whether it's night, a weekend or right after a big storm when every crew is busy, and whether the crew also has to remove debris or board up a skylight. Ask for the price before they start, and get a written invoice that describes what was covered. We haven't found reliable Colorado price data for tarping, so we don't quote a range.

Who to call tonight

Pick roofers you find yourself, not ones knocking on doors after the storm. Check their local license with the roofer check tool when you can.

Tomorrow

• Call your insurer if you haven't, and write down your claim number and the adjuster's name.
• Have a roofer find the actual source. Water travels along rafters and decking, so the stain is often not under the hole. Spotting roof damage explains common leak sources.
• Dry things out fast. Run fans and a dehumidifier, and pull up soaked rugs. Wet insulation and drywall usually need replacing.
• Check the tarp after any wind or rain.
• Get repair estimates in writing. Our quote check can help you read them.
• If the leak followed hail or wind, read the hail claim guide and use the claim calculators.

Will insurance cover it?

It depends on the cause. Homeowners policies generally cover sudden damage, such as hail, wind or a falling tree. They generally don't cover leaks from wear, age or poor maintenance. That's one more reason to have a roofer document what caused the leak. If you're not sure what hit your house, see hail size and roof damage or ask us a question.

Printable checklist

Print this page or screenshot this list and keep it with your insurance papers.

• Danger? Call 911. Sparks, burning smell or sagging ceiling: leave the room.
• Water near electrical: power off at the breaker, only if you're standing on dry ground.
• Bulging ceiling: bucket under it, stand in a doorway, long stick, first hole at the edge, not the center.
• Buckets under drips. Move or cover belongings.
• Photos and video of the leak and damage before cleanup.
• Call your insurer's claims line. Write down the claim number.
• Call a roofer for a tarp. Sign for the tarp only.
• Check the tarp: past the damage, over the ridge, fastened through boards.
• Keep every receipt.
• Tomorrow: find the source, dry out, get written estimates.

My insurer's claims line: ____________________   Policy number: ____________________

Roofer: ____________________   Claim number: ____________________

Common questions

Should I poke a hole in a bulging ceiling?

Only if you can do it from a safe distance. FEMA and the American Red Cross advise standing away from the sag, ideally in a doorway, and using a long stick with a nail on the end to poke a hole at the edge of the sag first, never the center, then working toward the low point. Stay away entirely if water is near a light fixture or the ceiling is cracking.

Can I wait until morning to call a roofer?

Usually, if the water is contained and nobody is at risk. Call your insurer's 24-hour claims line tonight to start the claim, then call roofers first thing. Call 911 for fire, sparking or a ceiling or roof that looks like it could come down.

Will insurance pay for an emergency tarp?

Reasonable temporary repairs that protect your home from further damage are usually part of a covered claim. Most policies actually require you to take them. Keep the invoice and photos, and confirm with your insurer.

Do I have to sign a roofing contract to get a tarp?

No. A tarp is a separate small job. Sign only for the tarp, and don't sign a full replacement contract under pressure on the night of a leak.

How long can a tarp stay on?

Only until the permanent repair. GAF suggests no more than about three months, with a check after the first month. Wind, snow and sun wear tarps out, so watch it after every storm.